COLUMBIAN RAINBOW BOA by Stuart Dodsworth
Epicrates maurusDistribution
This species of Rainbow Boa was previously described as a subspecies
of Epicrates cenchria, it was elevated to a full species status in its
own right in 2005 (Matz). There have been three subspecies recognized
so far and these are (Epicrates maurus maurus) this subspecies is mainly
found in North Eastern Venezuela, (Epicrates maurus guyanensis) this
subspecies is found in French Guiana and Surinam and (Epicrates cenchria
columbianus) which is found in Columbia, North Western Venezuela, Western
Panama, Nicaragua and Coast Rica.
Rainbow boas are so named because of the iridescent sheen imparted by
microscopic ridges on their scales, which act like prisms to refract
light into rainbows. They are primarily found in humid areas of forests,
woodlands, plains and swamps and are primarily nocturnal creatures.
This species of Rainbow Boa is as stunning as the Brazilian (E.c.cenchria)
as neonates, but remember it will loose its markings as it grows (occasionally
some brightly marked specimens do occur). It is also known as the Brown
Rainbow Boa.
Prior to getting this species research as much as possible and if possible
spend time with a current keeper to see if this is the species for you,
it is also worth joining your local reptile society/group as they will
be able to give you hints and tips (and you may be able to do the same
for them).
Size
These snakes grow to between 5 - 7 feet.
Diet
As always ensure that the snake is feeding when it is purchased.This
species feeds well on a diet of suitably sized rodents in captivity,
neonates should be offered food once or twice weekly, with adults being
given a good meal once a fortnight. Care should be taken with adults,
as they are prone to obesity. When feeding your snake it is essential
that you either use a feeding box or feed it on substrate that it cannot
ingest. They should also always be fed using tongs and not by hand.
Some specimens will only feed as it starts to get darker.
Requirements
· Heat Source: - The heat source should always be thermostatically
controlled and guarded to prevent thermal burns. Heat sources that can
be used for this species are reflector spotlights (green or red). Ceramic
or tubular heaters can also be used. Heat mats are a useful additional
source of heat although care should be taken as they have been linked
to ventral scale problems. Some rainbows will not feed under lighting
so check how the snake you are purchasing has been heated previously.
· Ultra Violet Light Source: - This is entirely up to the individual
keeper. Some wouldn't be without them as they show up the iridescent
markings of the snakes and have been linked to increase breeding behaviour.
Although as previously mentioned some will not feed when in illuminated
enclosures so if the snake stops feeding take the UV light out! If used
it should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking animal
and left on for 10-12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6-7
months depending on the manufacturer's advice. Care should be taken
if your reptile has unpigmented eyes (amelanistic or albinos or any
other red eyed morph) as it can damage their eyes. UV lights should
never be placed behind glass or plastic as this filters out the essential
UV rays. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used whilst UV lighting
is used.
· Thermostat: - These should always be used on heat sources to
prevent excessive temperatures damaging your reptile.
· Housing: - A dark wooden vivarium (well ventilated) with a
glass frontage is ideal for this species. Due to their shy nature the
vivarium should be situated away from drafty, busy areas of the house
and well away from any vibrations such as speakers, TVs, etc as the
vibrations distress the animals. An adult snake can be housed within
a vivarium measuring 4 foot by 2 foot by 2 foot, although this size
is only meant as a rough guideline. The vivarium should have securely
hanging logs on which the Rainbow Boa may hang. If you are not planning
to breed keep a single snake or same sex pairs, as this is a live bearing
species. Hatchlings will require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is
suitable), which can be left within the larger vivarium.
· Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources
used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
· Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium.
Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often incorrect.
· Hides: - These are an essential part of any vivarium as they
provide the animals with an area to escape from the stresses of over
exposure. They should also be provided with some branches, as some species
require areas to climb. Logs and boxes are essential hides for this
species they should be able to jam themselves into them to feel secure.
A box with a hole in the side/top just big enough fro the snake to fit
through is a good hide, which often encourages problem feeders to feed.
Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these reptiles as they
are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily
as this is also the water they drink. A humid hide containing damp sphagnum
moss should be provided in order to prevent disecdysis.
Rainbow boas are extremely sensitive to dehydration and maintenance
of high relative humidity is a must. Vivariums should be misted daily
and a humid shelter should be provided. A relative humidity of 75 -
80% is ideal. Anything lower than 50% for extended periods can result
in regurgitation of food and even death by dehydration.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25 degrees Celsius (78°F) is required
with a basking area of 32 degrees Celsius (90°F) this basking temperature
must not be exceeded. At night the temperature may be allowed to drop
to 23 to 25 degrees Celsius (75 - 80°F), although this is not recommended
if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.
Longevity
Columbian Rainbow Boas have been known to live for over 20 years. With
one specimen in the USA even reaching the early 30's.
Substrate
Ensure that a dry basking area is available in order to prevent ventral
scale infections occurring. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine
or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces
are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in
a separate feeding container. This substrate also aids in maintaining
the humidity level. Whatever you choose to use as your substrate, care
should always be taken when feeding your snake, in case any substrate
is ingested.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth - stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society - www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society - www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information - http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Epicrates_SP_maurus']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
http://www.pondturtle.com/lsnakea.html#Epicrates