CHECKERED GARTER SNAKE by Stuart Dodsworth
Thamnophis marcianus
Distribution
This species of Garter Snake is originally from Texas mainly, with populations
in smaller numbers in surrounding areas (Mexico, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua,
and Costa Rica). There are currently three subspecies that are recognized
and these are Northern or Marcy's Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis
marcianus marcianus), Yucatan or Southern Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis
marcianus praeocularis) and Checkered Garter Snake (Thamnophis marcianus
bovalli).
Size
This species can reach lengths of up to around 107cm (43") as adults.
Diet
Their main diet consists of earth worms, strips of garter grub, molluscs
and fish for hatchlings. As the snake grows, so will the frequency and
amount of food given as well as an increase in prey size. From pink
mice to small mice, earthworms, fish, crickets, strips of raw beef and
garter grub. It is very important that these particular snakes are given
a varied diet in order to prevent nutritional disorders. If fish is
used, it should be defrosted and then dunked in boiling water for 30
seconds to kill the thiaminaise and aid in the reduction of the risk
of deficiencies occurring. Freshwater fish is best.
Requirements
· Heat Source:- This can be either reflector spot lights in green,
red or blue, ceramics or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful
alternative. All heat sources should be guarded and thermostatically
controlled.
· UV Light Source:-Although this is controversial I prefer to
use a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light with this species as it aids in breeding
and feeding success. This should be positioned no more than 30 cm away
from the basking lizard and left on for 8 - 12 hours daily. This should
be replaced every 6 months. Snakes with unpigmented eyes shoul not be
exposed to UV lights as this can damage their eyes.
· Housing:- This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with
glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a
small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich
box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes
can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 60 cm long by 45cm deep
by 45cm high (24 inches long by 18 inches deep and 18 inches high).
If you do not want to breed from this species then it is best to keep
single sex pairs, as they are live bearers.
· Thermostat:- An essential part of any vivarium and is required
to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent
your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
· Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources
used in order to prevent thermal burns.
· Thermometers:- One should be placed at each end of the vivarium
in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the
vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are
often inaccurate.
· Hides:- These are essential to prevent stress and allow your
pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant
pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides.
Water
These animals require a water container which will allow them to bathe
without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is
also the water they drink. Heavy earthenware dog bowls are best as they
are harder for the snakes to tip over.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) should be
created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures
of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed
to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the
snake is suffering any respiratory infections.
Longevity
This species may reach ages in excess of 10 years if cared for correctly.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, chip shop paper. It is essential
that this species has a dry basking area. Whatever you use remember
that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination
from disease. Dust Free (Not cedar or pine) bark mulch which is of too
large a size to be ingested is excellent as it aids in maintaining the
humidity.
Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52
- 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people
tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January.
Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2
weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. Brumation is not
recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has
not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for
hatchlings.
NB - photograph taken from http://www.gartersnake.co.uk/marcianus2.htm
The distribution map was taken from http://lifemapper.org/robotfood/Reptile/Thamnophis%20marcianus.HTM
Recommended Reading/Useful contacts
Stuart Dodsworth - stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society - www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society - www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information - http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Thamnophis_SP_marcianus']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
www.thamnophis.com
www.gartersnake.co.uk